宋元时期,伴随着繁荣的东亚海域贸易,大量唐物跨海传到日本。其中,14世纪以后宋元织金锦和金襕袈裟在日本的风靡,就是中日唐物贸易的直接结果。金襕袈裟传入后,室町政权执政者仿效宋元皇帝,向亲信的僧侣下赐金襕,将金襕袈裟用作显示其宗教和政治意图的特殊道具。室町政权执政者还凭借金襕袈裟的唐物属性夸示其文化权威,在明朝的册封仪式上,足利义满以着金襕袈裟的形象示人,体现了其加入朝贡秩序时“若即若离”的心态。
During the Song and Yuan Dynasties,with the booming maritime trade,many Karamono spread across the sea to Japan. Among them,after the 14th century,weaving gold brocade became popular in Japan,which was the direct result of the Karamono trade. Following the example of the emperor of the Song and Yuan Dynasties,the Japanese rulers gave gold brocade to their trusted monks and it became an expression of the Shogun’s religious and politic intentions. The Shogun also showed people his cultural authority by virtue of gold brocade as a Karamono. Even,at the ceremony of conferring Japan in the Ming Dynasty,Shogun Ashikaga Yoshimitsu wore a kasaya woven with gold brocade,which conveyed his attitude of deliberately keeping a distance from the tributary system.